Cruising Portugal’s Douro River is an immersive lesson in wine and history, writes Lisa Wagstaff.
Viking’s 10-day Portugal’s River of Gold itinerary cruises Portugal’s Douro River, one of the oldest wine regions in the world. It is breathtakingly scenic. A trip here is not just a getaway, it is a living history lesson, brought to life by wine, stone and sun.
I stretch out on the sun deck of Viking Torgil as we meander past sandy riverbanks where fishermen stand calf deep in the river and eagles circle overhead. Homes are scattered across the hillside. Some are crumbling stone cottages, once overnight shelters for hunters, others renovated mansions atop medieval foundations.
Sip and seek on the Douro
The Douro isn’t a destination you simply pass through. It’s alive with history, each bend of the river a page out of a history book. My journey here with Viking takes me deep into its cultural heart. Recognised as one of the world’s oldest wine regions, the Douro has been producing wines for over 2,000 years and I am keen to drink in this story.
The itinerary
My 10-day journey begins with a two-night hotel stay in Lisbon. The first day is for our arrival and tour briefing. On day two, I join Viking’s Flavours of Lisbon foodie walking tour, learning about the history of Portugal’s food scene and sampling its delights along the way. We visit a market where we try Ginja, Portugal’s unique sour cherry liqueur and three different eateries, concluding at Manteigaria, a cafe that exclusively makes Pastéis de Nata, Portugal’s famous custard tarts. Learning that you say pastel de nata for a single tart and pastéis de nata for multiple tarts. Manteigaria sells over 3,000 pastéis de nata every day, and every bite of mine is delicious.
Day 3: Lisbon to Porto
Day three, we journey from Lisbon to Porto, stopping in Coimbra, one of Portugal’s oldest cities, for lunch with musical performances and a tour of its medieval-era university. The afternoon is the highlight, embarking on Viking Torgil with my partner and being shown to our Veranda stateroom. I unpack and stow my suitcase, knowing I won’t have to use my suitcase for another week. It is bliss. We mingle over drinks and live music in the Lounge, meeting the crew and other passengers before a welcome briefing. Afterwards, I take a glass of champagne to the sun deck and enjoy the beauty of Porto.
Cruising the Douro
Day 4
I’m trying to read my book, but it’s impossible. Each time I attempt a paragraph, my eyes drift upward, drawn to my ever-changing view. One line in, I pass a sprawling 17th-century estate, another sentence, terraced vineyards cascading down the hillside. I give up. My book is set aside and I let the scenery wash over me. It is well-timed too, as we are approaching Lock Carrapatelo, the deepest lock in Europe and one of the highest in the world. Everyone gathers on the sun deck to watch as we rise up 35 metres. Viking Torgil is a mini ship that has been specially designed for the Douro’s tight locks. The ship’s specifications are so precise that it feels as though we only have centimetres to spare.
After lunch, we disembark for Mateus Palace, the grand estate pictured on the Mateus wine bottle. The rosé was so popular in the ‘60s and ‘70s that it accounted for 40% of Portugal’s wine exports. Built in the 18th century, the palace features a Baroque facade with an ornate double staircase. Inside are countless priceless objects, however, the library is the most impressive, its floor-to-ceiling chestnut wood shelves are filled with leather-bound books as old as the home itself. I feel humbled by the elaborate display of wealth that wine has poured into the region.
Back on our tour bus, we weave along twisting roads for a modern look at Portugal’s wine scene at Sandeman Quinta do Seixo Winery & Vineyards. The 17th-century estate overlooks the Douro River with a view that belongs in an oil painting. We learn how port wines are crafted and sit down for a tasting against this glistening green and blue backdrop.
Day 5
Today, my partner and I celebrate our anniversary on board. Spending the morning sipping tea on our balcony as the countryside drifts past, eagles gracefully soaring overhead. Mid-morning Executive Chef, Michael Bee Venet, teaches us to make pastel de nata and we get the recipe to recreate the experience at home. It is just one of the small touches that keep the holiday memories alive long after I depart.
Every day includes a complimentary shore excursion as well as paid excursions. Rather than heading to Castelo Rodrigo – a tiny hilltop medieval fortress town – with the majority of the group, we opt to stroll along the banks of the Douro, passing apricot and almond trees, before returning to drink champagne in the plunge pool.
It is a beautiful day, but it is our evening that is unforgettable. At dinner, surrounded by new friends, we are serenaded by the restaurant team and presented with a cake to celebrate our anniversary. Afterwards, we head to the sun deck. We sip champagne as we watch the pink hues spreading across the sky, painting the most magnificent picture of the Douro. Saúde, to us, and to her beauty.
Day 6: Ola, Salamanca
On day six, we venture across the border, bound for Salamanca, Spain’s oldest university town. Now an enchanting city, centuries of stories linger in its cobblestone streets, from its 1st century Roman bridge and a 16th century Gothic-Baroque cathedral that rivals the grandeur of Sagrada Família to an impressive art deco museum. Salamanca was nicknamed the Golden City for the honey-hued glow at sunset emanating from the town’s sandstone buildings. The city caters to every fancy, shopping on Calle Toro, slow tapas and wine in Plaza Mayor and sampling cheeses at local produce markets. I discover the heart of the city through a local guide, Ana, who brings its baroque buildings to life. We lean in as Ana points out the famously hidden frog on the facade of the University of Salamanca. Legend says spotting the frog is good luck, and after this day, I am inclined to believe it.
Day 7
We disembark early for Favaios. A little town with a big reputation for its celebrated Moscatel wine and distinctive four-cornered loaves, produced in wood-fired bakeries and cherished across the Douro Valley. We visit its cooperative winery, a bakery and a museum before a regional lunch at Quinta da Avessada, with the most magical vineyard views.
In the evening, it is disco night on Torgil, just one example of the nightly entertainment. I am swept away by the music of Viking’s own resident performer, Edgar.
Day 8
In the morning, we visit the sacred pilgrimage town of Lamego and explore the stunning Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, an 18th-century Baroque masterpiece. Its grand staircase has 686 steps with nine terraces adorned with beautiful azulejo tiles, fountains, and statues. Pilgrims still climb on their knees, but we start at the top to admire the church’s exquisite tile work and intricate altarpieces.
On Torgil, between passing through the Carrapatelo and Crestuma locks, we are served high tea. Viking is known for its high tea experiences and this one more than fulfils the promise, with a Pastel de Nata adding Portuguese flair. In the evening, we watch a vintage port opening, where a ten-year-old ruby port is opened using the traditional method of fire and water, the theatrics as vibrant as the port’s rich flavour.
Day 9: Porto
After the serenity of the Douro, Porto’s vibrancy and bustling cityscape immediately capture my attention. We explore on foot, taking in its famous architecture. With our guide, we visit Porto Cathedral, a stunning Romanesque fortress with a rich history dating back to the 12th century. Inside, the intricate details and peaceful atmosphere make it unforgettable. We then admire the beautiful blue-and-white tiles at São Bento train station before enjoying free time on Rua das Flores.
Day 10: Disembarkation
The last day is my final chance to enjoy the blueberry pancakes I have ordered every morning. As I leave the restaurant, Chef Michael hands me a white envelope containing the pancake recipe, ready for me to recreate at home. The restaurant team are incredible and treat you like family. Viking has organised my transfer to the airport and has colour-coded baggage tags so guests know when to leave. It is a seamless experience.
Dining on Viking Torgil
Each day during our cruise, Chef Michael joins us in the lounge for our daily excursion talk and dinner briefing. Food is culture and Viking Torgil’s restaurant showcases regional cuisine, with three-course meals the norm. Being on the water, seafood is most often the hero of our meals, tender octopus, poached then grilled in the local custom to ensure delicate morsels; cataplana, a traditional stew served in a copper pan, laden with seafood and perfect for mopping up with the fresh-baked bread we devour each day.
Breakfast is always a buffet with an egg station as well as a menu of made-to-order favourites. Chef Michael wanders around with a basket of pastries, “Shall we?” he asks each day, joking that he gets a commission on every kilo we gain. With cuisine as divine as his, it is easy to do.
Our home on the Douro
“Serve your guests like you serve your loved ones” is the mantra of Viking Torgil’s Hotel Manager, Gabor Simon. Whether it’s Agus, our waiter, serenading us on our anniversary, our smiling housekeeper greeting us each morning, or Tryfon our tour guide always keen to share his knowledge, we are treated like family. Onboard, we are immersed into Portuguese culture, with cooking lessons, performances from local musicians and an ever-changing menu celebrating regional specialities. It is ten days of culture, cuisine, and pure riverfront beauty. An experience I will carry with me long after the journey ends.
