Cruising with Viking in Alaska and the Inside Passage unlocks some wild experiences, writes Helen Hayes.
I am experiencing the 49th state on an 11-day ‘Alaska & the Inside Passage’ itinerary with Viking Cruises, and it is totally blowing my mind. More than half of Alaska is not accessible by road, just by air or boat. This is why cruising here is so popular, meandering up serene sounds, marvelling at mystical forests and docking in legendary Alaskan ports. It is undoubtedly the most beautiful place I have ever been.
Our cruise starts in Seward, named for the man who brokered the deal to buy Alaska from Russia in 1867 for US$7.2 million – two cents an acre (o.4 hectare). That was the deal of a lifetime with Alaska, a veritable gold mine.
Exploring Alaska with Viking
Our ship, Viking Orion, stays in Seward for two days, giving us time to get to know the ship, get settled in our cabin and to go ashore to explore the town and its attractions, such as the Alaska SeaLife Center, which rescues injured marine life. I am delighted to see puffins, surely the cutest bird in the avian world.
Solomon Gulch
After a sunrise-lit departure, we arrive in Valdez and head to Solomon Gulch for the first of our David Attenborough-like nature exposures. It is almost indescribable, with the water bubbling with millions of salmon trying to leap up the stream or into the salmon hatchery to spawn. Add to that the cacophony of a zillion sea birds squawking with glee at this fishy buffet, and the front row seats we have to seven Steller sea lions indulging in a salmon feast that puts some of them into a food coma, eyes closed, swaying in the sun.
Hubbard Glacier
At Hubbard Glacier we board a catamaran for a tour to get closer to this marvel, dodging growlers (chunks of ice). The sheer size of this ‘galloping’ glacier is overwhelming, as is the phenomenon of calving. We see several ice falls from the textured layers that date back 400 years, and wait for the thunderous crack that follows.
Chicagof Island
Kayaks are our vessel of choice at Icy Strait Point on Chicagof Island, and it is so pleasant to explore with whales and seals frolicking nearby. We learn about the Tlingit culture and the island, where bears outnumber people five to one.
Skagway
In pretty Skagway, we learn about the Klondike gold rush that lured many from around the world. The path they had to take into the Yukon was torturous. We visit the Red Onion, a boisterous old saloon with ‘Quickie’ tours of the brothel upstairs.
Juneau
More mining history awaits in gorgeous Juneau, Alaska’s capital. Houses sit on top of clifftops and higgledy-piggledy staircases are official streets. Queues wait outside Tracy’s King Crab Shack and the swinging doors of the Red Dog Saloon open to a vibrant scene with a piano player pumping out old-timey tunes.
Sitka
An excursion in a rigid inflatable boat is a wonderful way to see Sitka, with its fleet of salmon trawlers and its islands. We are beside ourselves when we come upon sea otters, impossibly cute as they float on their backs.
Ketchikan
Our final excursion is in Ketchikan, and takes us out to Neets Bay Observatory, where we are once again rendered speechless. Another salmon spawning location, we see four bears fattening up on salmon to prepare for hibernation. We watch in awe as they catch and eat the salmon at will. One bear comes towards us, stopping by a nearby rock to eat his bounty. He stares at me from 20 metres away, and I stare back, heart hammering.
Unforgettable wildlife sightings
His eyes. Oh, his big brown eyes. They gaze at me unblinkingly for what feels like eternity. He is still wet, with perfect droplets on his furry coat from his latest foray into the stream. He is a glorious example of Ursus americanus, a black bear, and he is right there in front of me, in the wilds of Alaska.
What it’s like on board
From the seamless boarding process in Seward to the equally quick disembarkation in Vancouver, Viking Cruises makes cruising life easy. The design palette of Viking is elegant without being over the top, featuring earthy tones bringing a sense of calm.
Viking Orion’s amenities
There are many things that makes Viking Cruises stand out. I love that there is no casino. Wi-Fi is free and you can have it on multiple devices. There are guest laundries on every floor and guests can use the spa free of charge, with its thermal pools, hot tubs, steam room, snow grotto and more. The hot and cold Norwegian bathing experience becomes an enjoyable part of our day.
Indulgent dining at sea
While the ship is full – it takes a maximum of 930 people – it doesn’t feel it. There are so many quiet places to sit and read and nap, and shelves are full of books you can borrow. We love the views from the Explorers’ Lounge, the Living Room – where Dustin makes a mean flat white, and the pool deck, and have cocktails at Aquavit Terrace. We indulge in high tea in the Wintergarden, dine at World Café, The Restaurant or Manfredi’s Italian, and are soon known by name and by drink by the clever, friendly crew. It doesn’t take long before it feels like home, and all too quickly we are saying goodbye.
Memorable moments with Viking
As Viking Orion noses into port in Vancouver, highlights of the trip flash before my eyes. I relive so many experiences, but the one that will stick with me forever is my tête-à-tête with that bear, and his soulful brown eyes. Unforgettable.
This article originally appeared in volume 49 of Signature Luxury Travel & Style magazine. Be the first to see more exclusive online content by subscribing to the enewsletter below.
